The 7 Most Common Viessmann Boiler Problems [And The Fixes]

Welcome to our 3-minute guide to Viessmann boiler problems, symptoms, and fixes. Not all boiler problems are terminal, so hopefully, this troubleshooting guide will help you make sense of the fault, so you can get your boiler fixed ASAP.

We’d always advise getting a professional to help fix the problem with your Viessmann boiler.

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#1 – No Hot Water, But Heating Works

If you’ve got heating, but no hot water, there are a few potential culprits.  

This is a common problem with the Viessmann Vitodens 100 and Vitodens 200.

Although there are various explanations, there’s a good chance that your boiler engineer is going to diagnose a faulty diverter valve.

A diverter valve in your boiler helps switch between hot water and heating. If a diverter valve wasn’t fitted, your radiators would heat up every time you call the boiler for hot water.

Now if your diverter valve is faulty or stuck (on the heating side), that’s why the heating works, but the hot water doesn’t.

The Fix

If your Viessmann boiler is particularly old, there’s a good chance your diverter valve can’t be repaired.

A diverter valve costs around £350 to be replaced (depending on the boiler model).

If you’ve boiler is over 10 years old, other parts could be degrading too.

Have your engineer check over the most expensive parts in your boiler (burner, heat exchanger, pump and fan).

If they look like they’re about to fail, it might be worth considering a boiler replacement. You can get an online price for a new one in less than two minutes here.

#2 – Radiators Only Half Heating Up

Here are three scenarios that will help you to figure out what the problem with your Viessmann boiler is.

Radiators Only Half Heating Up

This is the only symptom that signifies a boiler fault.

It’s a sign of a temperature control, or water circulation problem.

Hot At The Top, But Cold At The Bottom

The probable cause isn’t boiler related, but instead, it’s caused by central heating sludge.

Read why your radiators are only hot at the top here.

Cold At The Top, But Hot At The Bottom

Radiators that are cold at the top usually signify an air lock. The radiators need to be bled to remove this air lock.

All you need is a radiator bleed key (like this one), and slowly open the valve until the hissing sound of air, is replaced by a slight dripping of water.

The Fix

So, assuming your radiators are just half heated (even temperature throughout), you’ll need to check for:

  • Heating pump faults
  • Flow and return temperature sensors (NTC thermistors)

A Gas Safe engineer will be able to check the heating pump for leaks, a seized motor, and to check it’s on the right flow setting.

They’ll then be able to use a multi-meter to check the NTC thermistors electrical current and resistance. If they are faulty, they need to be replaced.

If the NTC thermistors show no sign of faults, there’s a chance there’s limescale build-up around the thermistors.

Limescale creates uneven temperature readings, so the NTC thermistors won’t monitor it correctly. Therefore, the signals they provide back to the circuit board are intermittent.

Usually, the limescale settles near the thermistor. And, the thermistor thinks the overall water temperature is much higher than it is. This causes the boiler to shut off prematurely.

ALSO READ: Where are Viessmann boilers made?

#3 – Burner Blocked

A burner fault on your Viessmann boiler is going to be hard to diagnose without taking the boiler apart. And, that’s a job for a Gas Safe engineer.

The most common Viessmann fault code displayed for a burner blockage is the F1 error. You’ll see this on your display panel.

However, some models will display A3, B0, F1, F-E1 and F-E2.

Usually, this relates to a flue gas sensor problem.

The Fix

The most common fix here is the check the flue sensor.

Usually, this will be faulty, and need to be replaced. If you’d prefer to invest that cash into a new and reliable boiler, you can get prices from Heatable here. Not only are they competitive with their costs, but they offer 10-year warranties and flexible financing.

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#4 – Burner Lockout

One boiler problem that won’t give indication of what’s wrong, is a burner lockout.

The most common fault code that’s displayed is the F2. Although, older boilers (such as the Vitocrossal 200) may display errors such as the E1, E7, E8, E9, EA, EB, EC and F2 error codes.

Typically, there’s a blockage somewhere. And, the easiest place to start, is going to be the central heating pump in your boiler.

The Fix

This circulation fault causes the burner to lockout, but it’s not usually the burner at fault.

When the burner heats water, it needs the pump to circulate it. If it doesn’t the boiler can quickly overheat.

A common pump problem that can cause this, is an air lock.

We’ve written about boiler pump airlocks here.

#5 – Faulty Burner

Now, if you have a faulty burner (rather than one that’s not got the right operational conditions to work in), they’ll be specific fault codes for that.

For example, the Viessmann Vitocrossal 200 will display fault codes such as the F-B7, F-F4, F-F2, F-F7, F-F8 and F-F9.

The Vitodens 200 will display F10, F14, F3, and F4.

The reason the boiler is locking out, is there is no flame present, no signal of a flame, or the flame is weak.

The Fix

An engineer will first need to check that the flame sensor is working. On some occasions, it simply needs cleaning.

Next, they’ll need to check the burner itself. Hopefully, it’s clogged with debris, rather than broken.

Finally, if the burner and flame sensor appear to be working, the engineer will need to test the PCB. This communicates with the sensor and burner.

If it’s broken, neither will work. If you’re looking at expensive repair bills for a boiler with no remaining warranty, we’d probably lean towards getting prices for a new boiler. You can get a cheap boiler installed via Heatable, and get on-screen prices here.

#6 – Noisy Heating Pump, Or Cold Return Pipes

If you’ve got a noisy heating pump, there’s a good chance you also have cold return pipes, and your boiler will be showing a A8 fault code.

Typically, this will be a heating pump that’s blocked full of dirt, or has an airlock. Luckily, both are quite easy to fix.

The boiler monitors circulation of water. When it sees the minimum flow rate has not been achieved it will lock out, which is what’s happened here.

The Fix

The pump needs to be cleaned and inspected for damage.

Assuming the pump is in working condition, the flow settings may need to be altered to give the heating system a boost of water circulation, to meet the minimum flow rate the boiler requires.

#7 – Boiler Won’t Fire Up

If your Viessmann boiler problem relates to a unit that won’t ignite, there’s a few potential causes.

Viessmann states this is a fault with the burner. If this is clogged with debris, that’s enough to cause the fault, and a F5 error code will be displayed.

However, it’s more likely there’s an issue related to the air pressure sensor.

The Fix

First, the burner needs to be cleaned and inspected.

Next, the air pressure sensor needs to be tested. We’ve created a quick sensor fault finding guide here

This switch tells the boiler that air pressure is within safe operating range. If there’s a fault with the sensor, wiring, or the circuit board it communicates with, it won’t ignite.

The result could mean a new sensor, repairing wiring, or replacing the PCB. Don’t just sink money into an old boiler. When the costs spiral beyond £500, it makes sense to invest in a new boiler with a long warranty. And, you can get prices on a new boiler in less than 90-seconds here.

What’s Next?

If the Viessmann fault code being displayed on your boiler is not listed, you can find it on Viessmann’s website here.

Boilers are gas appliances.

So, you should contact a qualified boiler engineer to help you fix the problem. Or, get prices for a new boiler over at Heatable.



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  1. Boiler works fine until we go away for a couple of days or more. When we get back and switch it on it doers not ignite and shows F5. After repeated tries and warming with a hair dryer it eventually fires. We have replaced the circuit board but the fault returns

  2. Our boiler works fine until recently. We found F4 code. Resetting cannot fix it. But we can fix it by turning it off, waiting for 20 minutes and turning it back on. This happens more frequently recently from once several weeks to once a week to once a day (every morning).

    1. Hey Guowei,

      The F4 fault code means there’s no flame signal, not necessarily no flame.

      As this could be a gas/burner/sensor fault, I’d get an engineer to check it out for you.

  3. We have a brand new Viesman that is not firing up. Our plumber says it is due to our fuel (we use oil). We buy from one of the major supermarket chains. Is this likely to be a cause? How would we ever know where to buy oil from if this were the case. thanks

    1. Hi Janice,

      I assume you mean a major supplier of oil for boilers, not Tesco? 🙂

      Are there fault codes being displayed, highlighting a specific problem?

      Regarding specifics on the quality of oil, I’d have a chat with someone like BoilerJuice.

      I’d also have a chat with Viessmann and see what they think: 01952 675060. They’ll probably want to know the model of your oil boiler, so I’d have that handy.

  4. I have a Vitodens 100 WB1B 35k, getting an FF code. Have not checked the burner for debris yet, but when I clear the code, the boiler will go thru start up, begin to fire for a couple of seconds and the board will then short cycle by turning off and then back on. Would blockage cause the board to cycle or even if there is blockage, the board would most likely be bad?

    1. Viessmann list the FF as a PCB fault relating to the burner. Get an engineer with a multi-meter out to it.

  5. We have acquired a Viesmans Vitamans 100-W WB1B, 30 KW COMBI BOILER. This was already installed when moved into property.
    We have recently noticed small amounts of water appearing in the cupboard directly under where the boilers is installed. There are no obvious drips anywhere and all accessible pipe work appears bone dry. A bit of a mystery. Any There are no error codes on boiler and the heating system appears to be working fine. Any suggestions ?

  6. We have a the radiators are heating up but the water through the taps doesn’t get that hot ?
    Just had it serviced and have gone from needing a boiler to needing a power flush of the radiators???
    An f2 code has come up but not at the minute ??
    Don’t know who to believe?

  7. I have a 4 year old Vitodens 100 that when it finishes its on/burn time it has a surging tone that occurs right as it stops. Almost a second or so after the surge tone occurs once again. This happens each and every time it runs and I dont think it sounds normal

  8. I have a Vitodens 050 in my flat feeding 3 radiators. Intermittently, maybe once or twice a month, it makes a gurgling noise, pressure goes up to 3 and temp goes over 100, it then displays F1 (Sometimes F2 Code) and shuts down. I let it cool down for 10 mins and then reset, all is ok until next time.

    Boiler is 2 years old, Engineers have replaced heat plate, turned down the output of the boiler to minimum (he thought it was because it was only feeding 3 rads, even though Viessmann Tech say it will auto compensate)

    I get the impression they don’t know what the problem is.

    Any Ideas?

  9. I have Viessmann Vitocrossal 300 CA3 and using the “R” to reset the fault code”EE” does not reset the fault.
    I checked all associated components that the service manual said to check , but the fault is not clearing.
    What should I do next? The customer purchase the boiler in December 2017

    1. The EE fault code is the same for Vitocontrol-S, Vitotronic 100, Vitocrossal 300, Vitodens 200-W, 222-F, Vitotronic 300. In Viessmann’s own words “Burner in fault mode” and “At burner start,
      flame signal is missing or too weak”. A reset doesn’t fix a boiler problem. It’s meant to be used after the problem is fixed.

  10. Six years ago I had a Viessmann Vitodens 100-W boiler installed. My hot water has stopped working. The boiler starts up – but cuts-off after a few seconds. I have been told I need a new boiler as the pipes are blocked/partially blocked. Is there anything that can be done before considering a new boiler? Is it possible to flush out the rubber pipes or replace the pipes?

    Many thanks for any advice.

  11. On mine f5 it was a flap sticking to the rubber seal. I think it was an air flap. The fix was to cut the rubber seal off with a sharp knife. No problems since.
    The flap stuck if we went going for more than a few days with the boiler switched off.

  12. Hi,
    My boiler stopped few days ago. We had problem whit the water supply in the building before the building management replaced the water pumps. Since that the boiler did not worked as it was unfortunately it stopped before I could get an engineer. The heating works fine but when I turn the hot water on it goes up to an extreme temperature and stops whit the F2 fault even when it is set to the lovest ( 1 on the button) The engineer replaced the expansion vessel but it still doesn’t work. I assume it has nothing to do with the hot water, and the fault is related to the control.
    Can you please give me any advice before I get the quote of the further repairs.
    Thank you

    1. Istvan are you sure it’s not the diverter valve? From the sound of it … this could be the culprit. An engineer should know more (but not one who says it’s the expansion vessel).

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