Ideal Boiler F1 Fault Explained: What Does F1 Mean on a Boiler + How to Fix It

The F1 boiler fault is one of the most common Ideal boiler fault codes, appearing on multiple models, including the Logic combi (e.g. Ideal Logic Combi 30).

Ideal Boiler F1 Fault

If you’re seeing one — don’t despair. Although many other fault codes lead to a long-winded diagnostic process and a pricey fix, this shouldn’t be the case here.

Our quick guide below covers exactly what the Ideal F1 boiler fault code means and how to fix it. In general, if you see an F1 on your boiler, you should be able to correct the underlying issue without help. But, if in doubt, always speak to a Gas Safe engineer.

Constantly having problems with your old and tired boiler?
Get a fixed price for a new one on your screen here.

What Does the F1 Boiler Fault Code Mean?

The Ideal boiler F1 fault code means there is a lack of pressure in your heating system, most likely because there simply isn’t enough water.

If you see an F1 on a boiler, you may also see lights flashing on the front of your appliance. The boiler won’t work again until you raise the pressure and reset it.

Causes of the F1 Boiler Fault Code

In the simplest scenario, all you have to do is add water to the system via the filling loop.

However, if the system pressure keeps dropping, there could be a leak. You’ll need to fix the leak before you increase your boiler’s pressure, otherwise your property/boiler could be subject to water damage.

So, we’d suggest flicking through our guide on how to fix the F1 boiler fault code below before you decide what to do next.

How to Fix the F1 Boiler Fault on a Boiler

Depending on the exact issue, you may need to contact a Gas Safe engineer. This is certainly the case for any step below that entails the boiler being taken apart.

  1. Test the Pressure Sensor

If your boiler is sitting between 1-2 bar (1.5 bar is the ideal boiler pressure), then the pressure isn’t the problem. More likely, the pressure sensor is producing incorrect readings.

The water pressure sensor’s job is to tell the Printed Circuit Board (PCB) whether the pressure is too high or low. If it’s giving the PCB false signals, the boiler will display the F1 boiler fault code and stop working.

In the above scenario, your heating engineer will want to test the water pressure sensor and decide wether to replace it.

  1. Lack of Pressure, or Pressure Loss?

If the pressure is actually low (i.e. sensor isn’t the issue), you’ll need to determine whether the problem stems from a lack of pressure, or a loss of pressure.

A lack of pressure will require the boiler to be topped up with water via the filling loop (see how to increase boiler pressure below).

However, boiler pressure that’s consistently dropping indicates a leak. You’ll want to get the leak fixed before topping up the boiler’s pressure, otherwise you could have expensive repair bills for internal boiler components due to water damage, or even plaster/floorboards if the leak is coming from pipework.

A boiler should stay stable at 1.5 bar; below 0.5 bar, it’s going to stop working. So, is the boiler dropping pressure after it’s topped up?

  1. Finding Leaks

Naturally, the next step is to find leaks. Even the smallest leak means water and pressure loss over time.

Your heating engineer will systematically check things such as:

  • Radiators and towel rails for pinholes
  • Copper pipework for pinholes or loose joints
  • The boiler’s pump and heat exchanger.

In most cases, the leak will come from one of the above. You must fix it before increasing your boiler’s pressure.

  1. Increasing Boiler Pressure [And Bleeding Radiators]

The boiler will then need to be topped up, using the small braided hose beneath the boiler casing (the filling loop).

Monitor the pressure gauge as you increase boiler pressure — the ideal boiler pressure is 1.5 bar, which is what you’re aiming for (always check your owner’s manual to confirm this).

Note: As you fill up your heating system, air will enter. This essentially creates a blockage in your heating system, so it needs to be removed. You’ll need to top up the boiler and bleed radiators at the same time, so it’s worth getting a second pair of hands to help you during the process.

As you bleed the radiators, pressure will drop (so you’ll need to keep topping up via the filling loop) alongside bleeding them, until ALL air has escaped. We’ve created a guide covering how to bleed radiators here.

  1. Clear The F1 Boiler Fault Code

So, you’ve found and fixed leaks, increased boiler pressure, and bled all radiators.

The final step to clear the F1 boiler fault code and get your boiler up and running again is to reset your boiler. Job done!

Ideal Boiler Problems

The Ideal boiler F1 code isn’t the only common issue with this boiler brand. In most scenarios, multiple error codes will show at once. When they don’t, there’s still a chance that there’s more than one problem.

If your boiler still isn’t fixed, jump over to our guide covering the most common Ideal boiler problems here.

And if you’re fed up of your old boiler and want a new one? Check out our guide to new boiler costs here.

What’s Next?

That’s it! Hopefully that’s got the F1 boiler fault code cleared.

Still got issues? Send us an email via our contact page and we’ll do our best to help you out.

Previous

 

Avoid Expensive Breakdown Costs
Boiler Replacement Promise: If it's under 7 years old and we can’t repair it, we’ll replace it.
Try YourRepair. From £9/mo
All plans include: annual boiler service, all parts and labour, unlimited support and 24hr helpline.
INTERESTING READS

Fix things and tutorials

icon_1
Get a Boiler on Finance

The best pay monthly packages available

Read guide
icon_2
Heatable Boiler Replacement

Want a new boiler from HEATABLE?

Read guide
icon_2
WarmZilla Boiler Replacement

Want a new boiler from WARMZILLA?

Read guide
icon_3
Boiler Installation Costs

Confused about new boilers and their costs?

Read guide